How to Install the Pro-Series Magnum 272R Transmission
Learn About the Magnum's Pro-Grade Features and Install One Yourself
Originally developed for the Drag Slash, the new Pro Series Magnum 272R transmission is also an excellent upgrade for all the other 2WD Traxxas models: Bandit, Stampede, Rustler, and Slash, in standard and VXL versions. These models are all equipped with the original Magnum 272 transmission, and the Pro Series unit is a drop-in fit. Traxxas makes it easy to upgrade by offering the transmission fully assembled and ready to install, complete with 76, 83, 86, and 90-tooth spur gears to dial the gear ratio in for your model. You’ll only need about 20 minutes to make the swap. Let’s look at what the new features and benefits the Pro Series Magnum 272R transmission brings to your machine, and then we’ll go through the install step by step.
The Pro Series transmission arrives assembled and ready to install, complete with 90, 86, 83, and 76-tooth spur gears. The extra brace is a rear bumper support for Slash models.
The Pro Series transmission’s blue-anodized 3.2 mm aluminum motor plate is extra rigid and dissipates heat. The all-new housing features heavy-duty arm mounts and is engineered for strength and durability. All the internal gears are metal to handle all the torque 3-cell Velineon brushlesss horsepower can deliver. The bevel-gear differential is sealed to hold silicone oil and equipped with four spider gears for extra strength. Rubber-sealed ball bearings are used throughout the transmission.
New heavy-duty housing
Metal internal gears
The Pro Series housing lets you remove the differential without splitting the case halves. The diff simply slides out of a hatch in the transmission’s underside.
The proven Torque Control slipper clutch features heavy-duty friction pads for long life and consistent action. The design allows for fast spur-gear changes without altering the slipper-clutch setting.
How to Install the Pro Series Magnum 272R transmission
We’re installing our Pro Series transmission in a Rustler VXL, which shares its chassis with the Bandit. The steps are the same for Slash and Stampede models, but they’ll look different than our photos because of their lifted chassis designs.
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Metric Hex and Nut Driver Essentials Set
If you haven’t already upgraded your RC tools to include hex drivers and nut drivers, Traxxas has plenty of options for you. The #8712 7-Piece Essentials kit is a popular premium option and it includes every tool required for this installation. Want even more pro-quality tools? Get the #8710 Speed Bit Master Set.
Step 1: Remove the rear wheels and unplug the speed control from the motor
Use the 7 mm end of the 4-way wrench included with your model or a 7 mm nut driver to remove the rear wheels, then unplug the motor wires from the speed control by gripping the colored plug halves and separating them.
Use the 7 mm end of the 4-way wrench included with your model or a 7 mm nut driver to remove the rear wheels, then unplug the motor wires from the speed control by gripping the colored plug halves and separating them.
Pull on the colored plug bodies, not the flexible wires.
Step 2: Remove the wheelie bar mount and wheelie bar
Remove the screws shown and slide the wheelie bar mount off the transmission. If your model is equipped with a wheelie bar, remove it from the mount.
Remove the screws shown and slide the wheelie bar mount off the transmission. If your model is equipped with a wheelie bar, remove it from the mount.
Three screws secure the wheelie bar mount.
Pull the mount straight back to slide it off the chassis.
Step 3: Remove the transmission / suspension assembly
Use a 2 mm driver to remove the screws from the chassis-facing side of the shock tower. Leave the screws on the transmission side in place. Next, remove the six countersunk screws that secure the transmission from beneath the chassis. Use a 2.5 mm driver for the larger screws, and a 2 mm driver for the smaller screws. Lift the transmission and rear suspension assembly up and rearward to free it from the chassis..
Use a 2 mm driver to remove the screws from the chassis-facing side of the shock tower. Leave the screws on the transmission side in place. Next, remove the six countersunk screws that secure the transmission from beneath the chassis. Use a 2.5 mm driver for the larger screws, and a 2 mm driver for the smaller screws. Lift the transmission and rear suspension assembly up and rearward to free it from the chassis..
Eight screws secure the rear suspension: two in the shock tower, and six in the chassis’ underside. The tower screws can be accessed with the speed control in place. We removed our speed control to give you a better view of the screw locations.
The chassis has stops molded into it that capture the transmission / suspension assembly. Lift the assembly up and back to remove it.
Step 4: Remove the gear cover and motor
The gear cover is held by a pair of 2 mm screws. Remove them and lift the cover off to access the motor screws. Remove the motor screws and take out the motor. If necessary, use a 1.5 mm driver to remove the pinion. The motor screws can go in your spares box, the Pro Series transmission includes motor-mounting screws designed to work with its aluminum motor plate.
The gear cover is held by a pair of 2 mm screws. Remove them and lift the cover off to access the motor screws. Remove the motor screws and take out the motor. If necessary, use a 1.5 mm driver to remove the pinion. The motor screws can go in your spares box, the Pro Series transmission includes motor-mounting screws designed to work with its aluminum motor plate.
In addition to the gear cover and motor screws shown, you may need to remove the pinion gear if it is too large to pass through the motor plate.
Step 5: Remove the driveshafts from the transmission’s output shafts
Use a 1.5 mm driver to remove the screw pins that pass through the driveshaft ends. Slip the driveshafts off the transmission’s outputs.
Use a 1.5 mm driver to remove the screw pins that pass through the driveshaft ends. Slip the driveshafts off the transmission’s outputs.
Our Rustler is equipped with optional steel driveshafts. The stock composite shafts are attached the same way.
Step 6: Remove the suspension arms’ screw pins
Use a 2.5 mm driver to unscrew the pins from the arms. When all the screw threads are out of the arm, pull the pin straight back to slide the smooth section out.
Use a 2.5 mm driver to unscrew the pins from the arms. When all the screw threads are out of the arm, pull the pin straight back to slide the smooth section out.
Use pliers to remove the pin if it’s too tight for your fingers.
Step 7: Remove the shock tower
Now we can take out the remaining two screws in the tower to completely free the transmission from the suspension parts. Remove the screws with a 2 mm driver.
Now we can take out the remaining two screws in the tower to completely free the transmission from the suspension parts. Remove the screws with a 2 mm driver.
Two screws secure the shock tower to the transmission.
Now we’re ready to swap in the Pro Series transmission.
Step 8: Remove the Pro Series transmission cover and install the correct spur gear for your model
Remove the two screws that secure the gear cover using a 2 mm driver. If the chart below shows your model requires the 90T spur gear already installed on the Pro Series transmission, move on to the next step. If not, use a 2.5 mm driver to remove the three spur gear mounting screws and swap the 90T gear for the one that matches your model.
Remove the two screws that secure the gear cover using a 2 mm driver. If the chart below shows your model requires the 90T spur gear already installed on the Pro Series transmission, move on to the next step. If not, use a 2.5 mm driver to remove the three spur gear mounting screws and swap the 90T gear for the one that matches your model.
The gear cover screws are on opposite sides of the motor plate.
Four spur gears are included with the transmission. Use the chart below to select the correct gear for your model.
Step 9: Install the motor
Align the motor’s mounting holes with the slots in the motor plate. If you’re installing the Velineon 3500 brushless motor, position it so the motor wires point up. Use the chrome screws with attached lock-washers to hold the motor in place, but don’t tighten them fully yet. Tighten the screws so the motor is held without play but can still be moved in the slots and hold its position.
Align the motor’s mounting holes with the slots in the motor plate. If you’re installing the Velineon 3500 brushless motor, position it so the motor wires point up. Use the chrome screws with attached lock-washers to hold the motor in place, but don’t tighten them fully yet. Tighten the screws so the motor is held without play but can still be moved in the slots and hold its position.
Use the supplied screws to secure the motor, and install it so the wire protector points up.
Step 10: Set the gear mesh
When gear mesh is properly set, there will be just a tick of free play between the pinion and spur gear. Experienced RC modelers usually set mesh by feel, but even first-time modelers can easily set gear mesh by using a strip of paper to space the gears. Here’s how:
1) Cut a strip measuring about four inches long and a half-inch wide from notebook or printer paper (you can even use the Pro Series Transmission instruction sheet if that’s all you’ve got handy).
2) Mesh the pinion and spur gear together, then rotate the spur gear so it pulls the paper strip into the mesh.
3) Tighten the motor screws, then rotate the spur gear to back out the paper strip. You should now be able to rock the spur gear just a tiny amount—a tick—without the pinion moving.
4) Replace the gear cover to finish the job.
When gear mesh is properly set, there will be just a tick of free play between the pinion and spur gear. Experienced RC modelers usually set mesh by feel, but even first-time modelers can easily set gear mesh by using a strip of paper to space the gears. Here’s how:
1) Cut a strip measuring about four inches long and a half-inch wide from notebook or printer paper (you can even use the Pro Series Transmission instruction sheet if that’s all you’ve got handy).
2) Mesh the pinion and spur gear together, then rotate the spur gear so it pulls the paper strip into the mesh.
3) Tighten the motor screws, then rotate the spur gear to back out the paper strip. You should now be able to rock the spur gear just a tiny amount—a tick—without the pinion moving.
4) Replace the gear cover to finish the job.
A strip of paper makes it easy to set gear mesh correctly.
Properly meshed gears will have just a tick of free play.
Step 11: Install the shock tower onto the transmission
Replace the 2 mm screws you removed in Step 7. The screws only need to snug up against the tower’s mounting flange, overtightening will deform the flange.
Replace the 2 mm screws you removed in Step 7. The screws only need to snug up against the tower’s mounting flange, overtightening will deform the flange.
Stop tightening once the screws are snug against the tower’s flange.
Step 12: Install driveshafts onto the transmission outputs
Slide the shaft halves onto the transmission outputs. If a shaft doesn’t slide right on, just rotate it until its internal flats align with the flats on the transmission output. Sight through the screw pin hole and align it with the hole in the transmission output, then insert and tighten the screw pin to secure the driveshaft.
Slide the shaft halves onto the transmission outputs. If a shaft doesn’t slide right on, just rotate it until its internal flats align with the flats on the transmission output. Sight through the screw pin hole and align it with the hole in the transmission output, then insert and tighten the screw pin to secure the driveshaft.
Don’t overtighten the pins in the stock composite shafts, they just need to be snug. Our model has the optional steel shafts.
Step 13: Install the suspension arms and screw pins
Align the suspension arms on the arm mounts and slip the screw pins through the arms and mounts. Tighten each pin until the head is snug against the arm. There’s no need to go any tighter than snug, the threads just prevent the pins from sliding out.
Align the suspension arms on the arm mounts and slip the screw pins through the arms and mounts. Tighten each pin until the head is snug against the arm. There’s no need to go any tighter than snug, the threads just prevent the pins from sliding out.
The pin only needs to be snug, stop tightening when the head touches the suspension arm.
Step 14: Install the transmission / suspension assembly onto the chassis
Position the transmission all the way forward on the chassis so the shock tower’s front mounting screws align with the chassis holes, and the transmission seats in front of the stops in the mounting base. Reinstall the screws you removed in Step 3.
Position the transmission all the way forward on the chassis so the shock tower’s front mounting screws align with the chassis holes, and the transmission seats in front of the stops in the mounting base. Reinstall the screws you removed in Step 3.
Seat the assembly ahead of the stops in the chassis.
Reinstall the eight screws that secure the transmission / suspension assembly.
Optional step, Slash models only: install the bumper brace
The Pro Series transmission includes a new bumper brace specifically for the Slash. Install it using the button-head screws from your Slash’s existing bumper assembly and the new 3x12 mm shoulder screws included with the Pro Series transmission.
The Pro Series transmission includes a new bumper brace specifically for the Slash. Install it using the button-head screws from your Slash’s existing bumper assembly and the new 3x12 mm shoulder screws included with the Pro Series transmission.
The Pro Series transmission includes this bumper support for Slash models.
Step 15: Reinstall the wheelie bar
Use the new 3x12 mm shoulder screws included with the Pro Series transmission to attach the wheelie bar. While we’re here: how are your wheelie-bar wheels looking? You can dress them up with white-letter tires, or go all-out and upgrade to machined aluminum ball-bearing wheels anodized in blue or red.
Use the new 3x12 mm shoulder screws included with the Pro Series transmission to attach the wheelie bar. While we’re here: how are your wheelie-bar wheels looking? You can dress them up with white-letter tires, or go all-out and upgrade to machined aluminum ball-bearing wheels anodized in blue or red.
The Pro Series transmission’s wheelie bar mount is also compatible with the #9460 Drag Slash wheelie bar.
The white-letter tires on the optional blue and red wheelie-bar wheels can also be installed on the stock composite wheels.
Step 16: Plug the motor into the speed control and reinstall the wheels
Thread the motor wires through the opening in the shock tower and plug them into the speed control, making sure to match the wire colors. Your Pro Series Magnum 272R transmission installation is complete.
Thread the motor wires through the opening in the shock tower and plug them into the speed control, making sure to match the wire colors. Your Pro Series Magnum 272R transmission installation is complete.
Reattach the motor and speed control to finish the job.
This Rustler VXL is now Pro Series Magnum 272R equipped.
Adjusting the Slipper Clutch
The Pro Series transmission’s slipper clutch is set to “spring fully compressed” at the factory. This is the setting for the Drag Slash. For off-road use, loosen the adjusting nut one full turn. This setting will let you roost dirt, slide through turns, and break traction on command for a hard-hitting, full-power driving experience. In situations that might overload the drivetrain (for example, the jolt of a power-on jump landing), the clutch will slip to spare the transmission and driveshafts from having to absorb all the force.
You can further loosen the slipper clutch to help prevent wheelspin in low-traction conditions. To tell if the clutch is slipping or not, just listen: it will make a high-pitched whining sound when it’s slipping. Avoid setting the clutch so loose that it slips for more than two feet when performing a full-power launch from a standstill on a high-traction surface (such as carpet or pavement). Excessive slipping will cause premature friction pad wear, and friction-generated heat may damage the spur gear.
The Pro Series transmission’s slipper clutch is set to “spring fully compressed” at the factory. This is the setting for the Drag Slash. For off-road use, loosen the adjusting nut one full turn. This setting will let you roost dirt, slide through turns, and break traction on command for a hard-hitting, full-power driving experience. In situations that might overload the drivetrain (for example, the jolt of a power-on jump landing), the clutch will slip to spare the transmission and driveshafts from having to absorb all the force.
You can further loosen the slipper clutch to help prevent wheelspin in low-traction conditions. To tell if the clutch is slipping or not, just listen: it will make a high-pitched whining sound when it’s slipping. Avoid setting the clutch so loose that it slips for more than two feet when performing a full-power launch from a standstill on a high-traction surface (such as carpet or pavement). Excessive slipping will cause premature friction pad wear, and friction-generated heat may damage the spur gear.
For all-around driving, tighten the slipper clutch adjusting nut until the clutch spring is fully compressed, then loosen the nut one full turn.
Additional Featured Upgrades
We’re sure you noticed our Rustler VXL is outfitted with nearly every upgrade offered for the truck. If you’d like to boost the strength and style of your Rustler VXL with the same option parts we chose, just click the links below. In addition to the Rustler VXL, most of these parts are compatible with Slash, Stampede and Bandit models. Just check the model compatibility for the part on Traxxas.com to be sure. You can also get the blue-anodized parts in other colors—choose red, green, orange or pink.
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